Bristles with red cherry, raspberry, preserved mandarin peel, subtle leather, Mediterranean herbs and shrubs. Tantalizingly tangy and savoury, peaking now with all-conquering acidity and gentle grainy tannins, not unlike aged sangiovese. Engaging from start to finish, just surrender yourselves to its come-hither allure. Time on cement must have brought out the fruit’s dark side and grip in its youth, traces of which remain, while neutral Slavonian botti conferred mid-weight finesse. Impressive solo act.

Colline Pisane, Toscana, Italy; 100% ciliegiolo; 14% abv.

Stockists  RM149 Wine Bros

Blackberries and violet galore, with a spicy, peppery lift. No barnyard. Fresh and succulent, at times pulpy. Slightly hollow midpalate redeemed by surreptitious tannins which lend an austere, albeit welcomed finishing touch. A perky, no-frills sangiovese from coastal Maremma for your easy-drinking needs, like when you let your hair down. Or put your feet up.

Scansano, Maremma, Tuscany, Italy; 100% sangiovese; 13.5% abv.

Stockists  Verona Wines

Black cherry, violet, tobacco, leather and coffee notes emerge slowly alongside whiffs of grilled rosemary and barnyard. Shy, stuttering now. Ripe dark fruit reigns over umami-infused palate bolstered by Castelnuovo concentration and dusty tannins. Sound acidity keeps it juicy rather than fleshy. Solid value and potential for the price, Hopkins’s Hannibal would approve. After all, this Chianti was his blink-and-you-miss-it pick in 2001’s sequel.

Castelnuovo Berardenga, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy; 100% sangiovese; 13.5% abv; aged 24 months, 80% in 60-90hl Slavonian oak casks, 20% in French barriques.

Stockists  Tong Woh

Classic tar and roses, clove, menthol ointment and potting soil aside, this aromatic, red fruit-driven Barbaresco has traded playfulness for complexity and composure over the past seven months, adding quite a bit of tension and tannic traction to its velvet fabric. Bodes well for near future, though already very tempting. Good value find from lesser known, humongous MeGA in Treiso.

Meruzzano, Treiso, Barbaresco, Piemonte, Italy; 100% nebbiolo; 14.5% abv; aged 15-20 months in 20% new French tonneaux.

Stockists  Verona Wines

Super inviting perfume. Rose hip, hibiscus, raspberry, red berries, flint and spice notes race out of the glass with such unbridled exuberance, more so with a light chill. Unoaked, suits this svelte, brisk red just fine, with delicate tannins lurking but no hard edges. Glad that it didn’t try to be “overly” important for important’s sake. Seriously onto something here. Call it counter-intuitive, I can totally picture knocking back this red while kicking back on the Ionian coast come summertime.

Cirò, Calabria, Italy; 100% gaglioppo; 14% abv.

Stockists  Verona Wines

Mature and virile. Belts out red fruit, orange zest, truffle and damp forest floor notes, harmonized by lovely herbaceous tone sans overt sweet brown spice typical in many a youthful Central Otago pinot. At a silky, sumptuous sweet spot approaching the onset of red bean soup phase. Shares a similar thread with elegantly aged ‘06 Bannockburn into which declassified Long Gully grapes went (if fond memory serves me right), tasted with ex-winemaker Matt Dicey aeons ago. On point.

Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand; 100% pinot noir; 14% abv.

Stockists  n/a

Radiant and piquant, with cherry, blackberry, old leather and pronounced orange peel alongside hints of truffle and roasted coffee. Glides with graceful fluidity, propelled by bright acidity, unhindered by soothing tannins. Slightly delicate in frame but immensely rewarding at its zenith. Held up better, a superior vintage to ‘12. Aged Chianti Classico is always a win.

San Donato in Poggio, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy; 80% sangiovese, 15% canaiolo, 5% syrah; 13.5% abv..

Stockists  Tong Woh

Explodes with a seductive bouquet of roses, sour cherry, raspberry, tobacco, tangerine and a kiss of oak. Sanguine, sapid and smooth with a seamless touch. Life-giving acid backbone keeps Sant'Angelo in Colle’s plumpness in check. Tangy red fruit and iron notes extend to the firmish finale, where elegant yet vigilant tannins look to prolong peak drinking pleasure by another 5 years. Lovely balance and harmony. Lots of wine here.

Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy; 100% sangiovese grosso; 14.5% abv.

Stockists  Booze it

Provocative bouquet, almost riotous. Black cherry, plum, sarsaparilla, cinnamon, sandalwood, bramble and violet notes persist through to luscious palate shored up by taut, tea-like tannins. Structured, spicy and savoury, screams whole bunch and new oak. Flashy opening however fizzles out once this bold pinot pulls back and flatters to deceive. For now.

Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand; 100% pinot noir; 13.2% abv; 5.2 g/l total acidity.

Stockists  n/a

Lifted, compact and fruit forward, with cranberry, black raspberry, potpourri, spice, flint and textbook volcanic ash overtones. Deadly combo of succulent sweet fruit and incredible inner perfume, perhaps just at the expense of salinity. Sneaky concentration and tightly-knit tannins convey a sense of power, yet this go-to Etna Rosso is good to go on short notice. Always reliable.

Etna, Sicilia, Italy; 100% nerello mascalese; 14% abv.

Stockists  BoozeiT